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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.